Accra and Goodbye Ghana – August 3

We wanted to make a few last touristy stops around Accra to see the important monuments and other miscellaneous places that we hadn’t seen, since we had only been in the city for a few hours on the day we first arrived in Ghana.

Our first visit was to the tomb of the first President of Ghana, Kwame Nkrumah who declared Ghanaian independence in 1957.  His tomb was a large marble enclosure, Designed by a Ghanaian architect, constructed by the Chinese, with marble from Italy.  It was shaped like a sort of tree trunk with all of the outside walls curving upwards.  A nearby guide told us that the tree shape had been cut off to represent works unfinished by the President, whose government was overthrown by a military coup.  Later, driving by the very large Flagstaff House estate where the current President’s of Ghana always live, we could see that the massive Presidential Palace was also designed similarly.  In front of the tomb, pointing inland towards Ghana, was a large statue of Nkrumah, supposedly on the exact spot where he stood to declare the independence of Ghana.  Seven other statues of horn blowers on each side, as well as one statue playing native drums and one playing a native string instrument to represent the North and the South cultures of Ghana flanked the statue.

The Tomb

A horn blower

The Presidential Residence

After visiting the tomb we took a quick tour through the Kwame Nkrumah Museum nearby, which housed many photographs of him with famous figures like, Queen Elizabeth, Fidel Castro, Chairman Mao, and President Kennedy.  They had others artifacts too, like pens or desks corresponding with some significant time in his life.

The next visit was to the large indoor art and Ghanaian wares market at the Cultural Center not far away.  It reminded us particularly of a less overwhelming and smaller Central Market of Kumasi, but the whole thing had a roof over it.  We had a chance to pick up any last minute souvenirs and gifts that we had missed from the rest of our time here.  Most of the market contained what we’d seen all over, like masks, jerseys, cloth, kente, all concentrated in area (and for higher prices too).

Our final stop in Accra was the Mall, a place that was eerily American.  We ate in the food court to provide a variety of options, both Ghanaian and American.  Here we were also able to print off a photo of us with Emmanuel to put into the frame that we all signed for him as a thank you for all his work with us!  After picking up our things from the guesthouse, we headed straight to the airport to check our bags in.  That gave us a brief time outside to say our goodbyes to our friends Emmanuel, Govina, Cornelia, and Baba.  The international terminal in Accra is very nice and we had a good time swapping photos as we waited at our terminal, but all too soon the time came to say goodbye to Ghana and to say goodbye to Helena, who took a flight to visit family in Austria before returning to the US. 

Down to just four, we safely boarded our flight around 9 PM Ghana time and started our journey home!

Written by Clayton and Mollie

Goodbye Sunyani, Goodbye Friends – August 1

Packing this morning was pretty hectic!  We had to get every last item out of our dorm rooms in Sunyani so we could check out and head to Kumasi for the night.  Once we had everything packed into the cars, Mike and Clayton headed to Kumasi immediately to work on troubleshooting the generator for the Kwame Yeboah Krom.  Mollie, Chelsea, and Helena stayed with Emmanuel in Sunyani for much of the day completing last minute errands. 

First we dropped Chelsea off at the hospital so she could get information from him about the medical needs of the region, as well as to collect Mollie’s medical report from her stay at the Sunyani hospital.  Then we dropped Helena off in the main market for her to pick up a few items.  Finally, Emmanuel and Mollie visited the District Assembly to deliver the shipment allocation to the director and to receive reimbursement for the shipment costs. When we were all done with our errands we all went to meet the Regional Minister (similar to Governor of a state). 

We had been trying to fit our schedules to a time he could meet with us since our arrival, and we finally got it right.  After waiting about half of an hour for his meeting to finish up, we got to finally greet the Regional Minister on behalf of the team, and all of Pavlis.  We took a picture with him and the Sunyani MCE and then went across the street to have lunch with them. 

Emmanuel, Helena, the Regional Minister, Mollie, the MCE of Sunyani, and Chelsea

During that time Mike, Clayton, Peter and Govina were nursing the truck back to Kumasi with the generator. We switched trucks in Kumasi, so that Govina could get his truck properly fixed and we took off into the magazine. After fighting the usual stop and go traffic, we were directed to another electrician within the magazine who could check the health of our generator. After a few test the electrician told us that our problem was actually much simpler than we thought. The generator salesman told us the wrong neutral wire, and we had been using two live wires to check the voltage with light bulb, giving twice the required voltage. After seeing the generator light up a bulb using the correct wires, we knew everything was okay, and we set off to buy Peter a voltmeter so that he can check the generator at the site with more than a light bulb.

That night we were all in Kumasi again and as it was our last night there, Emmanuel and his family put on a party at their house with the whole family as well as some of Emmanuel’s students.  There was a delicious array of Ghanaian dishes including jolof rice, fufuo, goat soup, chicken soup and plain rice with a red sauce.  For dessert, Mollie baked an apple crisp because we found out that Adjoa’s (Emmanuel’s wife’s) favorite American food is apple pie.  It went very well with the vanilla ice cream and fresh mango slices that were also being served!

After dinner, dancing was the theme of the night, and with our friend Govina as DJ, it was hard to keep from tapping your toe to the music.  Luckily we had some help form the Ghanaian youngsters in learning the newest dance style in Ghana, Azonto.  The stars of the night were Emmanuel’s four kids though, because they were all getting in on the fun of dancing, even Kwaku at only 13 months of age!

Kwaku

Mike, Clayton, and Yaw eating ice cream

Mike and Clayton, with their electrician friend, Peter

Written by Mollie and Mike

The Whole Group in Kumasi – July 27-28

 On Friday the 27^th, the group was all in Kumasi.  Clayton and Mike picked up a few extra parts for the lister engine while Helena and Chelsea took a tour of the biochar reactors in Kumasi at SRI and then visited with Mollie at the Opuni house.  That evening we all got to talk to the India group by phone, which was really fun!  The Opunis served us a delicious meal of ampesi (a spicy cabbage and carrot dish, similar to coleslaw) and boiled yams and we got to play with the four kids!  The electricity went out for part of the evening, but it came on in time for some of us to watch the second half of the Olympic opening ceremony.  

Chelsea with Yaw and David, two of Emmanuel's sons

The next morning we had a leisurely start to the morning and then Mike, Clayton, Helena, and Chelsea decided to give Kumasi’s Central Market another go.  After a bit of a wait, we were able to catch a tro-tro to the middle of the city, where overwhelming traffic convinced us to hop out a bit before our destination and walk the remainder of the way (aided by Clayton’s directional knowledge).  The sun was hot and the market was busy, but that didn’t stop us from jumping right into the chaos with bargaining and buying.  

After a couple of hours and several successful finds, we headed out to the transit station.  There we were joined by Mollie and, finally fully reunited, we loaded onto a bus and headed back to Sunyani.  Once in Sunyani, Emmanuel (who had travelled near Sunyani for a funeral earlier in the day) drove us back to the dorms and accompanied us to a pizza dinner.  Following our meal, Helena, Mike, and Emmanuel partook in the live music and dancing just outside the restaurant.

Written by Mollie and Chelsea

Greeting the Town- July 10 & 11

Tuesday the 10^th was a day filled with going to the Sunyani open market for ingredients for dinner (we always have particular fun at the stand where we buy eggs, because the friendly women there, Nana Afia and Nana Yaa, always try to teach us a few new phrases of Twi when we visit), compiling our video footage, and doing a bit more writing for project documentation. At the end of the day, Mike, Chelsea, Mollie, and Helena went for a run along the street that goes by our dorms, during which most of the people who saw us go by either stared, laughed at us, or asked “Where are you going?”. As we realized later, people do jog around here, but the locals only go in the cool early morning hours.

One small section of the open market in Sunyani

Clayton holding one of the cocoyam leaves (similar in taste to spinach) we got at the market

On Wednesday, our morning was filled with errands and chores:  buying fresh food for the day, picking up a couple of science demonstration supplies, and filtering water.  Around noon, Emmanuel arrived (he had driven from Kumasi) to introduce us to a variety of individuals who will be instrumental throughout the remainder of our stay in Sunyani. 

We were introduced to Andy Ampong, the new headmaster at Ridge Experimental Junior High School, a site of donations and lessons from previous Pavlis cohorts.  Then, on our way to briefly visit another project location, the Abesim Community Center, we stopped in at the Sunyani Municipal Assembly, where we met the director and made future plans to meet with the Sunyani MCE (Municipal Chief Executive)- the official who has taken responsibility for the payment of our book shipment.

Emmanuel knows just about everyone in Sunyani, so our greetings did not stop there.  We stopped downtown and met Emmanuel’s mother-in-law, Comfort, at her local business, the Glory Pharmacy.  We drove to see the beautiful home of the Regional Minister and waited outside a meeting of all the area MCEs for the chance to be formally introduced to Kwasi Oppong Ababio, the Sunyani MCE, with whom we planned to meet the next day.

We met with the head chancellor of Sunyani’s new local environmental and natural sciences university (to be called ENAT) and became acquainted with Dr. Solomon Fofie, the head physician at Sunyani Polytechnic (another local university).  We also drove to see the Sunyani Regional Hospital, the workplace of Dr. Jacob, one of our main contacts for assessing medical needs in the area.

After this full day of greetings and introductions, Emmanuel delivered us back to our dormitory room and then headed back to Kumasi.  As for us, thoroughly worn out from meeting so many new faces, we made dinner (a spicy ginger/lime stir-fry), had our group meeting, and called it a night.   

*Note: This post was written by Chelsea.

Tro-Tros and Kwame Yeboahkrom – July 9

We're sorry for the delay again, everyone! We bought an internet modem last week, but the provider has been down, so we have had very limited internet access. We should be able to put up several new posts by the end of today, though. Thank you all for your patience! :)

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We all awoke Monday morning wondering if the recently returned power was really all that appreciated. The local student radio station adjacent to our room greeted us at 5am blaring their music from a small radio in their room, disrupting all of our sleep. But we were still able to get moving at 7am to enjoy a nice breakfast of eggs, toast and avocado prepared by Mollie, Chelsea, and Helena, while Clayton and Mike slugged their way through their morning.

This was our group’s first day apart from one another. Helena, Chelsea and Mollie stayed in Sunyani to sort out tasks around our dorm, while Clayton and Mike set out to Kwame Yeboahkrom to deliver the Lister engine housing plans and create a parts list, accompanied by our Kumasi electrician friend Peter (pronounced “Peetah”). This trip was also another first because instead of using Emmanuel’s forestry trucks to get to the village, we took the famous Ghanaian tro-tros the entire way, which created quite an adventure.

Starting in Sunyani, the first tro-tro trip was to Dormaa, with Mike and Clayton crammed in the first row and Peter behind. We entertained ourselves by pointing out the various oddball ads, business signs and taxi slogans along the way.  One sign appeared to be trying to tell us not to simultaneously lead small chickens while playing the trumpet.  From Dormaa everyone packed himself into the back row of another tro-tro, said goodbye to pavement, and bounced, rocked, creaked and banged all the way to the village of Ankrankwanta. From there, we took one last tro-tro to the clinic in Kwame Yeboahkrom, arriving there a bit after noon.

Working with the clinic’s doctor and our tro-tro driver- who, coincidently, also is helping with our project- we discussed the plans for the generator housing. We decided on a 10’ by 12’ room with one door and three basic windows for ventilation. The engine will be bolted to the floor with four studs imbedded in the cement that were delivered with the engine, while all other components such as the generator will be screwed in place after the building is done.

While we were in Kwame Yeboahkrom, our driver showed us another Lister engine being used in the village, which was previously unknown to us. This engine was powering a small grain mill, so although we still need to create our own system to connect a generator to ours, we at least have a working reference for what is needed to get our engine running.

After seeing the motor, we returned to the clinic and ironed out the rest of the details. We then shared a quick friendly chat with the clinic’s doctor and after Clayton attempted to speak Twi to a small crowd of laughing girls, we set off again in the same series of tro-tro’s back home. Leaving a little after 4:00 in the afternoon, and arriving home to the dorms around 8:00, Clayton and Mike joined the girls for a nice dinner of rice, fried cocoyam (a potato-like tuber), and breaded garden egg (like a mini eggplant) along with their best interpretation of no-bake cookies with locally available ingredients, ending another long successful day.  

The girls had a full day too, but with less travel: learning more of the ins and outs of the Sunyani market, organizing information from our projects so far for documentation, putting up blog posts, and cooking with ingredients from the market!

*Note: This post was written by Mike, though he wasn't here to post it himself.

Hello Sunyani! - July 8

When we woke up on Sunday morning, the power was out again.  The early Ghanaian sun, however, made the absence of electricity considerably more bearable!  We took advantage of the morning to become more familiar with our new home.  We gained access to a shared kitchen space (with counter space, several sinks, and even a gas stove!), met a Canadian summer resident of the dormitories, and got a head start on unpacking and tidying up our rooms. 

In the afternoon, the five of us caught a taxi to Sunyani’s market.  We satisfied hunger with a stop to eat the bread and pies to which we had previously been introduced.  Then, armed with a list, we explored downtown Sunyani.  We bought items ranging from onions and avacados, to butter and eggs, and even a couple of bandannas.  The Ghanaians we interacted with (most still dressed in their Sunday best) were very friendly.  Many were happy to have our business and even happier when we were able to slip in a word or two of Twi (i.e. basic greetings, introductions, and thank you’s). 

Four squished into the back of a taxi

Chelsea trying her pie

Though the Sunyani market was considerably less overwhelming than Kumasi’s central market, we were tired after a couple of successful hours and returned back to our dormitories.  Helena, Mike, and Clayton were able to wash some clothes (a far more time-consuming task when done by hand).  An attempt at a run was made, but prematurely concluded on account of pouring rain and approaching darkness. The entire group then enjoyed a headlamp-lit (as the power had yet to return) Minestrone soup dinner, as deliciously prepared by Mollie, Helena, and Clayton.  After 8 PM we again had electricity and Mike was able to tape-out dimensions and complete drawings for the lister engine’s housing structure.  We then discussed plans for the approaching day, and called it a night.

Biochar, Laundry, and Butterfly Sanctuary – July 6

Thanks to our many friends and advisors, our days in Ghana so far have been going very well. This morning, we visited the Soil Research Institute (SRI) in Kumasi, where some of the most extensive research on biochar in the world has been done. Biochar is a substance which is produced by charring organic matter in an anaerobic environment. It has many benefits, particularly the fact that it significantly increases crop yields when put into the soil. Therefore, Ghanaian biochar scientists are trying to increase biochar usage in agriculture. Last year’s Pavlis group started helping with the education side of this effort by talking to rural farmers about the benefits of biochar (which are not yet widely known by the general public) and organizing a small garden biochar experiment for school children in the village of Babianeha.

We plan on continuing the school garden experiments at various locations, but we wanted to meet with SRI to find out how else we could support the efforts of the biochar researchers. We met with Dr. Edward Calys, who generously took the time out of his busy schedule to sit with us and explain the current state of biochar usage in Ghana. He was very passionate and proud about the progress that has been made in recent years. So far, Ghana is putting one biochar reactor in each region of the country, which is far ahead of most countries in the world. However, this number of reactors is still not enough to allow farmers in rural areas the opportunity to use biochar.

Dr. Calys told us that what he needs most is more resources and help with improving the technology of their biochar reactors. So, we proposed to him the idea of starting an international senior design project for engineering students at Michigan Tech, whose aim would be to improve the reactor design. We gave him the appropriate paperwork to fill out, and hope to hear back from him soon.

Next, Dr. Calys introduced us to a director at SRI, as well as Dr. Edward Yeboah, the head biochar researcher. Both of them were very kind and welcomed us to the area. We then got to see some biochar for ourselves, since one of our great FORIG drivers, Godwin, was bringing some back for Emmanuel’s research. Dr. Calys also made arrangements for us to visit the nearest biochar reactor when we come back to Kumasi in a few weeks.

Dr. Calys on left showing us biochar

We then drove back to the FORIG campus, where Mollie, Chelsea, and Helena went to eat at the canteen while Mike and Clayton went into town with our other FORIG driver and pal, Govina, to get fitted for some Ghanaian shirts. At the canteen, which is a nice, open air restaurant of sorts for students and staff, the girls had some rice and veggies, along with a new soft drink we have discovered, called Alvaro. After finishing our meal, we met a student from the civil engineering department at KNUST who got very excited when he found out that we were from Michigan (he said he had read travel guides about Michigan) and sat at our table to find out about what we were doing in Ghana. We were very impressed that he finished an entire plate of banku (a dense sour dough made from cassava and maize) and soup during the course of our conversation; most of us usually have some trouble finishing our food here because it is so filling.

After lunch, Mollie, Chelsea, and Helena went to visit Naomi, the woman from the marketing department at FORIG who has been helping us with the advertising for the Duasidan Monkey Sanctuary. We gave her a draft of an info brochure for the sanctuary, and she generously told us she would work on designing a brochure (called flyers here in Ghana), road sign, and info poster over the weekend. We still need some information to complete these documents, but this coming week we hope to visit Duasidan again to get the input of the villagers and wrap up our lingering questions.

The girls then went to Emmanuel’s house to do some laundry- the Ghanaian way. We learned how to wash our clothes by hand using several buckets of water for washing and rinsing. We were accompanied by some of Emmanuel’s children, who actually took some time out from playing in the yard every once in a while to help us with some of the clothes washing.

Laundry with some help from small hands

Meanwhile, Mike and Clayton were shopping for essentials in the Central Kumasi Market, after getting fitted for their shirts. They were able to get a view of the entire market (largest one in West Africa!), which spans a huge area at their tailor. They made it back to Emmanuel’s house just in time to learn how to do some laundry themselves, and then we all squeezed into Govina’s truck to drive a half-hour outside of Kumasi to the guesthouse at the Bobori Butterfly Sanctuary, where we planned to stay the night.

Driving with Govina (who has driven us many places over the past few days) has been a lot of fun, and we have become familiar with quite a few hip new Ghanaian/African songs during the long drives. It was dark when we arrived at Bobori, but we could already see how great this location was. It was about a ten-minute drive through the forest to get there, but the guesthouse was very nice, with beautiful forest-murals painted on the bedroom walls, a well-equipped kitchen, and even a “room for relaxing”, which consisted of an outdoor patio with chairs and a table. Before the electricity was scheduled to be turned off at 9pm, we had time to make ourselves some spaghetti with vegetables (including a tomato-sized type of white eggplant the guys had gotten from the market earlier in the day), and enjoy the “room for relaxing” before turning in for the night. 

Tro-Tros and Shopping - July 4

This morning we were charged with our first independent (without direct assistance from our extremely knowledgeable advisors) group task:  to use the city transportation to once again reunite with our advisors by 8 am.  There are several ways to get around in Ghana, most of which do not include having our own personal driver; we had been very much spoiled throughout the first days of our visit.  The streets of Kumasi are bustling with taxis, buses, and tro-tros.  The latter option, tro-tros are re-purposed vans that make frequent stops along the main highways and can transport upwards of 10 passengers short distances around the city for extremely reasonable fare.  Because we were interested in transporting all five of us a short distance to our meeting point, we chose to travel by tro-tro.  When we decided to leave during morning rush hour, however, we quickly realized it would be unlikely for all of us to commute together. 

A tro-tro junction near KNUST

Two of us  (Mollie and Chelsea) hopped in the first available tro-tro and, just as the two began to worry about the others, the remaining three (Clayton, Helena, and Mike)-who had had to wait a while to find a tro-tro with enough room- were dropped off by a second one.  Both groups successfully communicated the stopping destination; therefore we completed our first independent mission--and all for a cost of 30 peswas (in USD, approximately 15 cents) per person!

On our final day with our advisors, we again had a full day mapped out.  First, we travelled by tro-tro to downtown (or, in Twi, “adum”).  There, we had beginning lessons in bargaining.  In Ghanaian markets, there is no such thing as a price tag.  Rather, when you ask “how much?”, sellers are likely to give you (especially if you are an obruni—the Ghanaian term for a white person), a starting figure of as much as 10 times a reasonable price.  Having been first informed of a reasonable price range, the five of us bargained for masks for our advisors. 

Then we met our advisors at the CSIR Basic School to meet the classes that we planned to work with the next day.  Since we planned to teach science lessons to the students, we went into town with Godwin, one of our trusty drivers and Cornelia, a new friend of ours from FORIG.  We tracked down supplies like Vaseline, vinegar, baking soda and kebob sticks from the outskirts of Kumasi’s Central Market, the largest market in West Africa. 

A colorful booth in the market

The streets were overwhelmingly crowded with customers and vendors of all sorts. In order to get the kebob sticks, we asked a vendor selling kebobs where to buy the sticks.  A woman near the stall tried to explain to Cornelia where to get them, but ended up leading us to them herself.  It was quite an adventure trying to keep up with the woman with the six of us trailing at varying distances behind through alleys, through a market on the train tracks and back through twisty-turney alleys again.  The eventful chase was well worth it, though, we were able to get our kebob skewers! 

In the market Helena, Mike, and Mollie bought some fabric to make into custom shirts and dresses too.  And the group bought bread, peanut butter, and bananas, which we later ate for dinner.  After dinner, Mike and Helena bought some snacks at a local gas station, where Mike also had his hair cut for 5 cedi ($2.50)!

A fabric store near the market