Friday, July 27, 2012

Generators and Funerals (Not Ours!) – July 13


 This morning Chelsea, Helena and Mollie woke up early and enjoyed a wonderful breakfast of scrambled eggs and veggies with toast prepared for us by Emmanuel’s family, specifically Lawrence, a very nice and helpful guy around our age.  After breakfast we went to visit the junior high school, where they were in the middle of their normal Friday worship. 

The students were joyfully singing and dancing in the classroom when we went to greet them.  The teacher asked us to say a few words to the class, so Helena told the students how happy we were to hear their beautiful singing this morning, and how we are looking forward to starting the biochar garden with them. The students, however, just looked blankly at us, so the teacher repeated everything that Helena had just said, because he realized that the students simply hadn’t understood the American accent. We found out that we wouldn’t be able to teach at the school that day, so we would have to come back on Monday to do our biochar garden lesson.

The headmaster took us to see the bounteous garden that the school maintains, full of onions, maize (corn), cabbage, okra, ripe hot peppers, cowpeas, cocoyams, and more!  He plans to use the garden next year to teach about crop rotation and we hope to also incorporate a section of the garden using biochar, to increase yield.  There is a sawmill next door to the school where they can source sawdust to make into biochar. 

Next, we visited the community center established by past cohorts and assessed the state of the computers in use there.  From there, we were accompanied by Lawrence, Reagan, and Adinkra (all guys around our age) to the Cote d’Ivoire border, where we walked along it for a ways, comparing the differences between each country.  Badukrum is the village that is between the Ghana customs border and the Cote d’Ivoire customs border, where the citizens have dual citizenship, share languages and currencies.  We changed about 50 cents into sefa coins, used in Cote d’Ivoire, as souvenirs.  The Ghanaian street lights are poles with four cables strung from each while the Ivorian lights are on cement posts with one cable on each.  There is a path past the village that follows the border all the way north and south.  We walked along it a ways and came across some grave sites, sorted by religion. 

After a mid-day nap we returned to the community center where we met some kids and played a couple jumping games, including jump rope with ropes donated by a previous Pavlis group, as well as a local jumping and clapping game called ampe (pronounced ahm-pee).  There we met Adinkra again and he led us to the one week celebration of a man who had passed away in the village.  In Ghana, funerals are quite celebratory, but this was not the same as a proper funeral, for which they set the date today for August 2. 

At this ceremony, there was traditional drumming and singing, accompanied by a couple traditional dancers at a time.  When we arrived, we greeted everyone (including all the chiefs and elders) in the first row of chairs then sat down to observe the proceedings.  After a short time we were asked to dance, and with varying degrees of apprehension, we did do our best imitation of the crouched, small steps of the other women we had seen dancing.  We were comforted by the fact that we seemed to be well received and the gesture was appreciated.  As we danced, three women gave us their red and black shawls to wear, as these are the traditional colors of death in Ghana and we were not dressed accordingly (as we had not known we would be going to a funeral). 

Traditional musicians and dancing
When we finished dancing, we returned the shawls and sat down again to soak in the call and response singing, the different percussion instruments and the more expert dancing of the local women.  After a time we were invited into the neighboring house for a drink and were offered some pop, which we accepted, as well as traditional palm wine, which we all tasted.  The palm wine was sweet and served traditionally in dried gourds.  The men that drank the wine poured the top off of the very top of the wine onto the ground to share with the ancestors.  Adinkra told us that a practical reason for this is to avoid the impurities that float to the top.  After finishing our drinks we returned and continued watching the celebrations until the ceremony ended. 

Upon returning to our hosts’ (the Opunis) house, we were greeted with a dinner of rice, cocoyam leaves, chicken and spicy fish sauce.  After dinner, we rested and watched some kids playing football (soccer). 

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Meanwhile, Mike and Clayton started the day early and met Peter at 8am to grab a tro-tro into town (Kumasi) where he knew some places that had generators.  We went from place to place, covering a good portion of the city and a greater portion of the day without having any luck finding what we needed.  It turned out that while “all-in-one unit” gas generators are extremely common in Ghana, many people were often at a loss when we explained we were looking for only the generator/alternator part.  We kept traveling and finally found (kind of) what we were looking for at a smaller engineering bay on a street corner.  They had a generator there that would make a decent match for our engine, though it was bolted into a frame with an engine already.  The man said that he would remove the engine for us if we didn’t want it. 

After a long day of marching here and there we finally came back to FORIG to say goodbye, and Govina took us across the city once again to catch his own bus and help us catch one back to Sunyani.  It was dark by the time we got there (although, it’s only around 6:00 pm when it gets dark here) and finished the night with spaghetti and a rousing two hours of laundry.  The next morning we planned to head off to Babianeha ourselves.  We also called the girls to see how they were doing and how their trip had been.

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

The President Dies

This week I am staying with our contact, Emmanuel, and his family, at
their house in Kumasi. This afternoon, I was reading in the living
room after the kids returned from school when Godwin, one of the
Emmanuel's students, brought the news on the radio to my attention:
The President of Ghana, Prof. John Evans Atta Mills, had just died.

This came as a huge shock to me and the rest of the country as he had
just celebrated his 68th birthday on Saturday. The news is reporting
that he was taken to the hospital a few hours before his death. An
emergency session of parliament was called to swear in the vice
president, John Dramani Mahama at 8 PM. Mahama had just returned from
the US on tour for his new book a memoir.

The TV and radio have had nonstop commemoration and reaction
interviews. Mills was apparently a huge sportsman, and accordingly
the football (soccer) final scheduled for this weekend has been
postponed out of respect. There has been an outpouring of condolences
from every interviewee for his family. The mood is very somber.

At 8 PM I joined the whole family in front of the television to watch
the ceremony, with many of the parliament members sporting red and
black strips of cloth tied around their arms, necks and heads - the
traditional funeral colors of Ghana. The session began with prayer,
then a minute of standing in silence in honor of the late president.
A band played the national anthem and the vice president was summoned
to repeat his oath of office. After his completion, he was directed
to sit in the president's high seat at the front and center of the
parliament. As he sat, he was greeted by applause, but subsequently
rose to address the country.

He declared a week of mourning for the country, including flags at
half-mast, then went on to lament the loss of a father, colleague and
mentor. I can't even imagine the shock and burden he feels at this
time. After his speech the majority leader moved to close the session
with no other business and the motion was seconded by the minority
leader. With no objections, the session was closed and the band
played again.

We will see what this next week of mourning brings to our team in our
experience of Ghana. It certainly is an historic time to be here.

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PS - Just to explain the delay in posting blog updates: I am in Kumasi
with the (mostly) working internet modem that has very little data on
it, while the rest of the team is working out of Sunyani with many
blog posts written but a very dysfunctional modem that should have
multitudes of data available, but seems to refuse to load blogger.
We'll keep trying!